The Goose at Britwell Salome is a handsome brick-built restaurant with parts dating back to 1728 and if like us it has been a while since you last went, then trust me, you should return as soon as possible. In May this year it changed ownership, had an extensive refurbishment, extended it’s kitchen and added a stylish outside dining space. Best of all it has brought back Michael North, this time as the Head Chef. Debbie Whiteside the front of house/restaurant manager breezed us into the new garden area, which has a decidedly English country garden meets Mediterranean courtyard feel with quality teak dining furniture in terracotta and green, traditional hanging baskets, wild roses climbing on trellis, and a laid back atmosphere aided by the soothing and ambient background music. We let the sun set as we enjoyed chilled glasses of chardonnay and studied the menus. Following our substantial self inflicted excesses of the Henley Royal Regatta and Festival fortnight, my partner and I were really looking forward to some uncomplicated, wholesome home made food in a restaurant where every thing is made and prepared daily on the premises.
The improvements are evident the moment you step in- and wow, we were stunned by this now very stylish, contemporary restaurant, and new look that has breathed new life into this tired old goose. Imagine, clean, crisp lines, the Hessian and natural oak flooring, rose coloured ceiling with embedded spotlights, cream tongue and groove walls, brick built pillars - traditional materials but a sophisticated feel. The table settings are just as stylish and simple with pretty blue and green glassware, white linen napkins, polished silverware, long white candles and fresh English country flowers. I loved the framed Annie tempest cartoons and good old traditional hunting pictures, the tapestry curtains and I there is even a glamorous Victorian silk screen shielding the entrance to the kitchen.
Imogen our waitress bought us our wine, a French 2002 Rose Domaine to compliment our diverse choices for supper. My fiancé selected the Tian of Cornish crab with avocado cream and tomato water, which was fresh, light and exquisite followed by the most amazing rich deep layered braised lamb and potato torte, creamed spinach and lamb jus. I cajoled him into sharing it with me, which swiftly turned into a “who can eat this without licking your lips competition – it was that delectable, I lasted four seconds! Luckily, he didn’t notice as he was absorbed in pronouncing he had died and gone to heaven. For me it was the fresh tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, broad beans and peas. A quessential seasonal dish. The lime green of the beans against the darkness of the mushrooms, the silkiness of the olive oil, and an unmistakable suggestion of truffles. Sensational. Following that, arrived the roast fillet of hake with crushed new potato, braised fennel and sauce vierge. It was blissfully light, yet substantial, and a superb crusty topping. It was faultless.
Earlier that evening I had murmured something about being on a diet, which I had now thrown straight out of the window knowing the desserts would be equally fabulous. In fact I wanted to try them all – so we did! Gorgeous rich Chocolate tart that you could swim in, the lightest apple tar-tatin, sumptuous sticky toffee pudding, delectable praline ice cream and, exemplary summerberry crumble with vanilla ice-cream. At this point we mused all our supper dishes and challenged each-other to put them into order of preference. Every dish had ingenious touches, a veritable home produced feel, and presentation to die for, but we found it impossible to recount a single dish that deserved to be last – They were all truly perfect.
The Goose is fast set to become the latest must-try (again) restaurant, with its spectacular new menu its new sophisticated look and Chef Michael North. A talented and fantastic young chef, who, at only 24 years old not only overseas the whole operation, but is creating food that challenges the best of the fine-dining competition. With his whole career still in front of him, he already making dishes that he should be very proud of - The feather in this Gooses cap!
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