Great things have been happening deep within the heavenly tree-covered hills, on the edge of the Stonor Park Estate - Here an independently owned restaurant set within buildings dating back to the 18th Century, has been carefully, and lovingly re-launched with a style that reflects both the best of modern English luxury, and unashamed self indulgence. The Flying Pig at The Stonor Arms hotel has become an exceptional ‘restaurant with rooms’ bringing creativity, excitement and relaxation straight to us on our doorstep. Mark Van Der Goot the general manager & chef sommelier together with James McClean (who won young chef of the year in 1997) come to us here from a Michelin stared London restaurant, and they both have a passion for food and drink and pay total attention to detail.
My guest and I were warmly welcomed at reception by Marks wife Sharalyn who unveiled the refreshing new look and we were surprised and enchanted to discover that there are number of relaxing and invigorating dinning spots to choose from. Be it the blue snug that has well used leather chesterfield armchairs, deep sofas, oversized stuffed cushions, natural sun bleached woods and soft mellow table lamps, or perhaps you would prefer the thoroughly romantic conservatory overlooking the classic walled garden furnished with cream linen table cloths and glass lanterns creating a actual feel of bringing the outside in. (..and don’t forget to have a peek at the bathrooms! Decadent. Rich purple walls, chrome fittings and elegant black marble, pure French frivolity and fun, think Paris 1900’s). We opted for the inviting, glamorous and opulent Art deco style dining room that had deep red covered chairs, large glass table lamps, antique mirrored walls and soft lighting.
Just as we were thinking, this couldn’t get any better, we were delighted to discover that the team had prepared a tasting menu and wines for us - as this is an option they are developing and will be able to offer guests in the very near future. We started with a lovely savoury celeric and apple soup, celeric fondant, caramalised sweetbreads and foie gras which were twinned with 2001 Selback Ostler Reisling wine. Mark wholeheartedly explained for us each of the dishes and complimentary wine choices giving each dish real personality. Our next course was an aromatic and delightful smoked chicken and wild mushroom ravioli that had Jerusalem artichoke and toasted hazelnut veloute. Mark had chosen a mouth watering Italian 1999 Rondi di Chiarla Friuli to accompany this. It becomes evident that whilst James creates classic French cooking, he adds a twist of originality by combining cultures and by exploring taste sensations. Mark compliments this with his unparallel wine knowledge, and working together in a natural harmony they create the most amazing flavour combinations.
I deeply loved our cerviche of diver caught scallop, ginger, chilli, coriander, lemongrass and langoustine brochette and my guest had a firm favourite with the braised rib of beef, parsnip puree, baby beetroot & truffle jus with which Mark had hand picked a 2000 Australian Yerling Station from the Yarra Valley.
The team has been careful to produce a menu that will appeal to everybody. You may fancy the delicious sounding slow roasted breast and confit leg of Anjou squab pigeon with a truffled mash or maybe, if fish dishes are your true love, you would choose from pan fried halibut & roasted lobster, with shallot, carrot and fennel, or a roasted fillet of sea trout, pancetta, rock oyster and mushroom mustard grain dressing. As if that’s not enough the desserts were ludicrously tempting and delicious with either memories of summer in the shape of strawberry and basil bruchetta with crème fraiche ice cream, or warm and wintery such as the chocolate and hazelnut dacquoise with lemon thyme ice cream. Finally and reluctant to leave we rounded off a fantastic and captivating evening as we drank our coffee in the contempory and ambient Crocodile Bar, drinking coffee and chatting with the barman whilst being surrounded by the interesting assortment of grappa’s and armanac’s.
Although seriously serious about its food and wine The Flying Pig is a “fine dining experience - without the faff. ” You will immediately feel at home and be encouraged to relax and have fun with a variety of spectacular food and wine tastes. Mark James and Sharyln positively welcome your comments and questions and are on hand to make your visit as and interesting and absorbing as possible, responding to queries about dishes and assisting you to uncover the world of wine. They will do everything they can to make sure you are welcomed, looked after and relaxed. And if you don’t enjoy it – well…Pigs might Fly!
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