Wednesday 2 May 2007

Danesfield House, Buckinghamshire

Gourmet Guide
Any time is perfect to visit Danesfield House Hotel, although Spring is especially splendid. This Country House hotel positively glows as it welcomes non-residents and boasts a beautiful 65 acres of sweeping estate grounds. Arriving into the grounds, you’re immediately swept back in time, Victorian time. Danesfield House is mighty impressive, with its sweeping driveway and crunchy gravelled parking leading to this castellated mansion boasting longing views of the Thames. Anticipation builds from the moment you glimpse the Grand Hall from reception. The Grand Hall is a vast oak panelled span bedecked with fresh flowers and an enormous fireplace, giving an insight into the grandeur offered by this hotel.
My partner and I were met by a charismatic John Verstraeten, Front of House Manager, who offers a huge depth of knowledge (and the occasional discrete gossip) garnered from his 9 years of hosting at Danesfield. Making us feel immediately welcome, he showed us through to the cocktail bar to unwind and peruse the menu over a glass of sherry. This bar is striking and traditional with leather tan and green chesterfield seating, tapestry wall dressings hosting parkland scenes, rich oak wall panelling and handsome leaded French doors leading into the leafy glass Victorian conservatory– all very Hercule Poiret.
We were soon being shown into the Oak Room for our Supper – this really is the prettiest room you could imagine. Fresh lilies adorning a magnificent fireplace, opulent gilt framed oil paintings, candle lit mirrored sconces, high ceilings. The elegant tables are perfectly set with crisp white linen, and an abundance of solid silver – from the candlestick to the butter dish and cutlery. To finish the table, it was highlighted with seasonal flower arrangements of delicate snowdrops and lavender.
An asparagus pre-starter arrived which was light and creamy, arousing the palate in anticipation. To start I had ordered Warm Boudin – which as I found out, is a tasty traditional French black pudding. This entire article could easily be devoted to this single dish, it was astounding with a ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ mousse like texture accompanied by a wonderful combination of sweet and sharp bite from specially cured pickled onions and a granny smith’s apple vinaigrette. My fiancĂ© opted for Comfit Rabbit set in Gewurtztraminer Jelly with a salad of Roasted Rabbit Fillet, stating that it was beautifully delicate with a refreshing jelly and excellent contrasting flavours.
As a main act, we selected the Roasted Corn fed chicken with fresh pasta and Truffles (rich yet light and the truffells distinctive but not overpowering) and the Anjou Pigeon with Bitter chocolate, golden sultanas and nabbed Coco. The combination of strong bitter cocoa, unadulterated black chocolate, and pigeon provided an excellent and memorable dish.
By this point, the food had been so perfect it was hopeless to try to resist dessert and a pre-dessert of blueberry soup accompanied by a comprehensive but keenly-priced champagne/ dessert wine menu arrived as we were choosing which dish we would share. First, my choice – a dazzling and refreshing Sabayon of Oranges and grand Marnier with Blood orange Granita. My partner chose the memorable assiette of Lemon and Basil – this offered a delicate balance of zingy iced flavours with soft, rounded herbed jellies – truly awesome.
Obvious to late to resist anything by now, we finished with delicious coffee and home made petit fours. This provided the perfect time to reflect on a seasonally changing menu that is refreshingly uncomplicated, with the emphasis on the finest produce. The dishes at Danesfield have traditional origins, but with an inventive, light and creative edge, making them honed to perfection by the executive Chef Damian Broom.
Whilst the Grand Hall is open all year round for mid morning coffee and traditional afternoon tea, the hotel also offers the Orangery restaurant, along with an extensive terrace for outside dining in the summer. We found each area to have a relaxed and intimate atmosphere, with each room having its own character. From now until the end of the year, you can enjoy the benefits of the estate grounds and have a relaxing stroll, taking in the incredible scenery over looking the River Thames. The Wisteria each year is not to be missed, and I have it on good authority (our Host showing those 9 years of experience) that it’s at its most magnificent in late April – early May, and smells incredible.
Our visit from the magical castellated beginning, to the satiated finish, was wonderful in every way, the food was breathtaking, the service pristine, yet informal and the venue was staggering. All in all a wonderful, luscious evening, and a warm memory.

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